Trousers & Shalwars

Match the cut to the top you own

Each cut gives a different line, so choose by the top.

• Shalwar: loose through the hip and tapering at the ankle, traditional and comfortable.
• Straight trousers: slim and neat, a safe match for most kurtas.
• Cigarette trousers: fitted and ankle length, good with long or flared tops.
• Palazzo: wide-leg and breezy, good with short or fitted tops.
• Culottes and capris: wide or cropped, easy in heat.
• Tights, churidar and leggings: close fitting, suited to long flared kurtas.
• Jeans and denim: also listed here, since the page follows the bottom, not the cut.

If you are unsure, a straight trouser in black, navy or beige works with most kurtas. Kurtas shows lengths that pair with each cut.

Waist, rise and length: the three numbers

Fit problems usually come from three numbers. Measure your natural waist and hip, then compare them with the brand's chart. For length, measure from the waist to the ankle and note whether the listing means ankle length or floor length.

Elastic waists forgive small differences and suit shalwars and palazzos. Fitted or zip-up waists need exact numbers. Rise is the distance from waist to crotch, and brands describe it differently, so check the photos. A bottom that is too long drags and wears at the hem; one that is too short looks unfinished. If you are between sizes, the larger one is easier to alter. The size guide shows how to measure.

Matching a bottom to a shirt: weight, colour and the lost trouser

Match the weight of the bottom to the weight of the shirt so the outfit hangs evenly: a thick winter shirt over a thin bottom looks unbalanced, and the reverse is just as uncomfortable.

If you lost the trouser from a suit, an exact dye match from another brand is unlikely. A plain bottom in black, navy, white or beige is the safe way to bring the suit back. Check the colour in daylight photos, and check whether a listing is for one bottom or a pair. Compare the price of a separate bottom with the cost of a whole new suit before you decide. If the shirt is sheer or light, check whether the bottom is lined.

Bottoms for hot, mild and cold days

For heat, choose cotton or lawn-type palazzos, culottes and shalwars, because wide legs let air move. For mild weather, cambric and mid-weight cotton hold a neat line. For cold days, a thicker cotton or a warm fabric works, and you can wear tights underneath.

Air-conditioned offices call for a fabric that is not clingy but not thin either. Plain colours in dark shades suit repeat wear; wash dark bottoms apart for the first few washes, dry in the shade and iron while slightly damp so creases stay sharp on straight trousers.